2.3 Esters: Fruity & Sweet Notes (e.g., Ethyl Butyrate, Methyl Anthranilate)
Introduction
Esters are among the most widely used aroma compounds in perfumery, known for their fruity, sweet, and pleasant scents. They create the delicious notes found in tropical fruits, berries, and floral compositions.
- Esters contribute to fruity, juicy, and creamy accords.
- They provide a light, fresh, and youthful character to perfumes.
- Commonly found in citrus, floral, gourmand, and fruity fragrances.
In this section, we will explore what esters are, their chemistry, scent characteristics, and practical applications in perfumes, with examples of Ethyl Butyrate and Methyl Anthranilate.
1. What Are Esters?
Definition & Chemical Structure
Esters are organic compounds formed by the reaction of an alcohol and a carboxylic acid. This reaction is called esterification and produces a fragrant, non-acidic molecule with a characteristic fruity or floral scent.
General Chemical Formula of Esters:
R-COO-R’
where R and R’ are hydrocarbon groups from the acid and alcohol.
Why Are Esters Important in Perfumery?
✔ They mimic natural fruity and floral scents.
✔ They are lighter than heavy aroma chemicals, making them perfect for top and middle notes.
✔ Used in synthetic recreations of natural fruit and flower aromas.
2. How Esters Create Fruity & Sweet Notes in Perfumes
Esters contribute to the sweet, juicy, and refreshing qualities of fragrances. They:
- Enhance the top and heart notes of perfumes.
- Add a mouth-watering effect, perfect for gourmand and fruity fragrances.
- Work well with citrus, floral, and creamy vanilla accords.
Let’s explore Ethyl Butyrate and Methyl Anthranilate, two widely used esters.
3. Ethyl Butyrate: The Juicy Pineapple Ester
Chemical Structure & Properties
- Ethyl Butyrate (C6H12O2) is the ester of butyric acid and ethanol.
- Naturally found in pineapple, orange, and passion fruit.
- Highly volatile, meaning it provides an instant fruity burst in top notes.
Natural Source & Extraction
- Found in oranges, pineapples, and strawberries.
- Commonly produced synthetically for perfumes due to stability.
Scent Profile & Uses in Perfumery
- Fresh, tropical, pineapple-like, slightly creamy.
- Used in citrus, fruity, and sweet perfumes.
- Works well in gourmand and summer fragrances.
📌 Example Perfume Use:
✔ Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue – Uses ethyl butyrate for its fresh tropical fruitiness.
✔ Escada Miami Blossom – A pineapple and citrus fragrance enhanced with ethyl butyrate.
Practical Example: Testing Ethyl Butyrate’s Fruity Effect
🔬 Materials Needed:
- 2 ml Ethyl Butyrate
- 10 ml Ethanol (95%)
- Glass dropper bottle
🔬 Steps:
1️⃣ Mix ethyl butyrate and ethanol in a dropper bottle.
2️⃣ Shake well and let sit for 24 hours.
3️⃣ Apply a drop on a blotter strip – you’ll notice a strong pineapple-orange scent.
💡 Application: Add to a DIY tropical fruity perfume with citrus and coconut notes!
4. Methyl Anthranilate: The Sweet Grape & Floral Ester
Chemical Structure & Properties
- Methyl Anthranilate (C8H9NO2) is the ester of anthranilic acid and methanol.
- Naturally found in grapes, orange blossoms, and jasmine.
- More stable and long-lasting than ethyl butyrate.
Natural Source & Extraction
- Found in grape skins, neroli, and orange flowers.
- Often synthesized for greater purity and longevity in perfumes.
Scent Profile & Uses in Perfumery
- Sweet, fruity, grape-like, floral with a slightly musky undertone.
- Used in floral, fruity, and oriental fragrances.
- Commonly used in grape soda flavors, but also adds a unique twist to perfumes.
📌 Example Perfume Use:
✔ Thierry Mugler Alien – Uses methyl anthranilate for its deep floral-sweet character.
✔ Le Labo Fleur d’Oranger 27 – A citrus-floral perfume with a sweet, grape-like richness.
Practical Example: Mixing Methyl Anthranilate with Citrus Notes
🔬 Materials Needed:
- 2 ml Methyl Anthranilate
- 10 ml Ethanol (95%)
- Glass dropper bottle
🔬 Steps:
1️⃣ Mix methyl anthranilate and ethanol in a dropper bottle.
2️⃣ Shake well and let sit for 24 hours.
3️⃣ Apply a drop on a blotter strip – you’ll notice a rich, grape-like floral sweetness.
💡 Application: Use in a floral-fruity perfume with orange blossom and vanilla!
5. Practical Application: DIY Fruity Perfume (50ml Formula)
🔬 Formula:
| Ingredient | Amount (ml) | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Ethyl Butyrate | 3 ml | Sweet pineapple top note |
| Methyl Anthranilate | 2 ml | Grape-floral fruity heart |
| Orange Blossom Oil | 2 ml | Soft floral citrus note |
| Bergamot Oil | 3 ml | Fresh citrus sparkle |
| Vanilla Extract | 2 ml | Sweet creamy base |
| Musk Fixative | 1 ml | Enhances longevity |
| Ethanol 95% | 37 ml | Dilution and blending |
🔬 Steps to Blend:
1️⃣ Mix all essential oils and esters in a glass perfume bottle.
2️⃣ Add ethanol and shake well.
3️⃣ Let the blend mature for 2-4 weeks in a dark, cool place.
4️⃣ Filter before using.
💡 Final Scent:
✔ Juicy fruity top notes (pineapple, bergamot)
✔ Sweet floral heart (methyl anthranilate, orange blossom)
✔ Warm creamy finish (vanilla, musk)
Conclusion: Why Esters Are Essential in Perfumery
🔹 They provide sweet, fruity, and uplifting scents.
🔹 Used in citrus, floral, and gourmand fragrances.
🔹 Common in both natural and synthetic perfumes.
🚀 Next Step: Try experimenting with esters in different fruit-floral blends to create your own fresh and playful perfumes!
😊✨ Happy Perfumery Experimenting!