3.2 Common Fixatives in Perfumery & Their Role in Longevity
Introduction: What Are Fixatives in Perfumery?
Fixatives are essential ingredients in perfumery that help to slow down the evaporation of volatile fragrance molecules, making a perfume last longer on the skin. They stabilize the scent composition and ensure that the fragrance unfolds gradually over time.
💡 Think of a fixative as the “glue” that holds a perfume together, ensuring the top, middle, and base notes harmonize and linger.
Types of Fixatives in Perfumery
Fixatives can be classified into natural and synthetic types:
1️⃣ Natural Fixatives (Derived from Plants & Animals)
Natural fixatives are botanical resins, woods, balsams, and animal-derived substances that slow down the evaporation of perfume molecules.
| Natural Fixative | Scent Profile | Common Uses in Perfumery |
|---|---|---|
| Orris Root (Iris Pallida) | Powdery, floral, violet-like | Used in luxury floral and powdery perfumes |
| Sandalwood | Warm, woody, creamy | Enhances oriental, woody, and floral compositions |
| Labdanum (Rock Rose) | Amber-like, leathery, sweet | Key ingredient in amber and chypre fragrances |
| Benzoin | Warm, vanilla-like, resinous | Used in gourmand and oriental fragrances |
| Tonka Bean | Sweet, almond-like, vanilla | Fixative for warm and spicy fragrances |
| Ambergris (Now Synthetic Alternative Used) | Marine, animalic, musky | Used in high-end perfumery for longevity |
2️⃣ Synthetic Fixatives (Modern Perfumery Ingredients)
Synthetic fixatives are lab-created molecules that enhance fragrance longevity and stability.
| Synthetic Fixative | Scent Profile | Common Uses in Perfumery |
|---|---|---|
| Iso E Super | Woody, soft, slightly amber | Found in modern woody and musky fragrances |
| Ambroxan | Dry, woody, ambergris-like | Used in niche and high-end perfumes |
| Hedione | Floral, jasmine-like, airy | Enhances citrus and floral perfumes |
| Galaxolide (Polycyclic Musk) | Clean, fresh, powdery | Used in commercial laundry-fresh scents |
| Fixolide (Macrocyclic Musk) | Soft, warm, long-lasting | Used in luxury and niche perfumes |
How Fixatives Work in a Perfume Formula
A perfume consists of three parts:
1️⃣ Top Notes (Light & Volatile): Citrus, fresh herbs, light florals (evaporate quickly).
2️⃣ Middle Notes (Heart of the Fragrance): Floral, spicy, fruity (lasts 2-6 hours).
3️⃣ Base Notes (Long-lasting Foundation): Musks, woods, resins, balsams (can last 12+ hours).
🔹 Fixatives slow the evaporation of the middle and base notes, ensuring the perfume develops gradually and remains on the skin for a long time.
💡 Example:
Imagine a vanilla and sandalwood perfume. Without a fixative, the vanilla would fade quickly, but benzoin or labdanum would make it last for hours.
🔬 Practical Example 1: Comparing Fixative Effectiveness
Objective:
Test how different fixatives affect perfume longevity.
Materials Needed:
✔ 3 test vials (5ml each)
✔ Ethanol (95%)
✔ Fragrance oils (Lemon, Jasmine, Sandalwood)
✔ Fixatives (Orris Root, Ambroxan, Galaxolide)
✔ Perfume blotters for testing
Procedure:
1️⃣ Prepare three perfume blends:
- Vial 1 (Without Fixative): Lemon (5 drops) + Jasmine (3 drops) + Sandalwood (3 drops) + Ethanol
- Vial 2 (With Natural Fixative): Same as Vial 1 + 2 drops of Orris Root extract
- Vial 3 (With Synthetic Fixative): Same as Vial 1 + 2 drops of Ambroxan
2️⃣ Apply each blend on separate blotters.
3️⃣ Smell at different intervals: Immediately, after 2 hours, 6 hours, and 12 hours.
4️⃣ Record how long the scent lasts and changes over time.
Expected Results:
| Time | Vial 1 (No Fixative) | Vial 2 (Orris Root – Natural Fixative) | Vial 3 (Ambroxan – Synthetic Fixative) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 min | Strong, fresh | Strong, slightly softer | Strong, warm |
| 2 hours | Faded by 50% | Still noticeable | Still strong |
| 6 hours | Almost gone | Soft floral remains | Well-balanced scent |
| 12 hours | Barely detectable | Light powdery note | Clearly present |
✔ Result: The fixatives significantly improve the longevity of the perfume, with Ambroxan performing best.
🔬 Practical Example 2: Creating a Fixative-Based Perfume Accord
Objective:
Create a warm, long-lasting fragrance using fixatives.
Materials Needed:
✔ Ethanol (95%)
✔ Fragrance Oils: Bergamot (Top Note), Rose (Heart Note), Sandalwood (Base Note)
✔ Fixatives: Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Iso E Super
Formula:
🔹 Top Note: Bergamot – 5 drops
🔹 Middle Note: Rose – 5 drops
🔹 Base Note: Sandalwood – 10 drops
🔹 Fixatives:
- Benzoin – 2 drops (Natural)
- Tonka Bean – 2 drops (Natural)
- Iso E Super – 3 drops (Synthetic)
1️⃣ Mix all ingredients in a 5ml vial with ethanol.
2️⃣ Let it mature for 24 hours.
3️⃣ Apply to a blotter and test longevity.
✔ Expected Outcome: The fixatives will enhance the base notes, making the fragrance richer and longer-lasting.
Conclusion: Choosing the Right Fixative
💡 For natural perfumery: Use orris root, benzoin, tonka bean, and sandalwood for longevity.
💡 For modern fragrances: Use Ambroxan, Iso E Super, and macrocyclic musks to enhance diffusion and stability.
💡 For everyday perfumes: Polycyclic musks (like Galaxolide) provide freshness but have environmental concerns.
🚀 Final Tip for Perfumers:
Experiment with different fixatives to achieve the best balance of longevity, diffusion, and scent evolution!
😊✨ Happy formulating!