4.3 Selecting the Right Carrier for Your Fragrance Formulation

Introduction: The Role of Carriers in Perfumery

A carrier is the base liquid that dissolves fragrance ingredients and helps distribute the scent on the skin, hair, or fabric. Choosing the right carrier is crucial because it affects:
✔ Scent diffusion (how the fragrance spreads in the air).
✔ Longevity (how long the scent lasts on skin or clothes).
✔ Texture and skin feel (light, greasy, fast-absorbing, etc.).
✔ Application type (spray, roll-on, solid perfume, etc.).

In perfume formulation, the carrier makes up 70-90% of the final product, while essential oils, aroma chemicals, or absolutes make up the remaining 10-30%.

1️⃣ Types of Carriers in Perfumery

Different carriers are used depending on the perfume type and application method. Below are the most common categories:

A. Alcohol-Based Carriers

🔹 Ethanol (Perfumer’s Alcohol – 95%)

• Best for: Fine fragrances, Eau de Parfum (EDP), Eau de Toilette (EDT).
• Properties: Fast evaporation, strong scent projection.
• Pros: Enhances diffusion, easy to spray.
• Cons: Can dry out the skin, may have an initial alcohol scent.

🔹 Denatured Alcohol (SDA 40-B)

• Similar to ethanol but treated to prevent ingestion.
• Common in commercial perfumes.

🔹 Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol – 70% or 99%)

• Used for body sprays and disinfecting mists.
• Evaporates too quickly to be ideal for high-quality perfumes.

✔ Best for: If you want a light, quick-diffusing perfume with strong projection.

B. Oil-Based Carriers

🔹 Fractionated Coconut Oil (MCT Oil – Medium Chain Triglycerides)

• Best for: Roll-on perfumes, body oils, hair perfumes.
• Properties: Odorless, light, non-greasy, excellent longevity.
• Pros: Hydrating for skin, smooth texture.
• Cons: Slower diffusion, does not project as strongly as alcohol-based perfumes.

🔹 Jojoba Oil

• Best for: High-end, long-lasting natural perfumes.
• Properties: Close to natural skin oils, long shelf life.
• Pros: Enhances fixative properties, smooth application.
• Cons: Can feel slightly waxy, slower evaporation.

🔹 Dipropylene Glycol (DPG)

• Best for: Oil-based perfumes and incense formulas.
• Properties: Helps stabilize fragrance, extends longevity.
• Pros: Improves solubility of aroma compounds, cost-effective.
• Cons: Synthetic, slightly heavier than natural oils.

✔ Best for: If you want long-lasting, skin-friendly perfumes that are subtle but personal.

C. Water-Based & Emulsified Carriers

🔹 Cyclomethicone (Silicone-Based Carrier)

• Best for: Body sprays, hair perfumes, dry perfume oils.
• Properties: Lightweight, silky texture, no greasy residue.
• Pros: Dries quickly, spreads well, suitable for sensitive skin.
• Cons: Does not mix well with all essential oils.

🔹 Water-Based Sprays (Using Solubilizers like Polysorbate 20 or PEG-40 Castor Oil)

• Best for: Refreshing body sprays, linen mists, air fresheners.
• Properties: Requires emulsifiers to dissolve fragrance in water.
• Pros: Non-drying, lighter than alcohol.
• Cons: Shorter longevity, requires preservatives.

✔ Best for: If you want a light, fresh spray for everyday use.

2️⃣ How to Choose the Right Carrier for Your Fragrance Formulation

Your choice of carrier depends on four main factors:

✔ If you want a strong, room-filling scent → Choose Ethanol (Alcohol-based perfume).
✔ If you want a close-to-skin, long-lasting scent → Choose Jojoba or MCT Oil.
✔ If you want a lightweight, non-greasy mist → Use Cyclomethicone or Water-based carriers.

3️⃣ Practical Example: Formulating a Perfume in Different Carriers

Fragrance Blend (Same Formula in Different Carriers)

✔ Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon
✔ Heart Notes: Rose, Jasmine
✔ Base Notes: Sandalwood, Musk

Testing in Different Carriers

1️⃣ Alcohol-Based Spray (Ethanol 95%)

✔ Recipe:

• 80% Ethanol
• 20% Fragrance oils

✔ Results:

• Strong initial scent burst, fast diffusion.
• Good projection but fades after 4-6 hours.

2️⃣ Oil-Based Roll-On (MCT Oil)

✔ Recipe:

• 90% MCT Oil
• 10% Fragrance oils

✔ Results:

• Long-lasting (8-12 hours), smooth and soft scent.
• Less projection, intimate fragrance experience.

3️⃣ Water-Based Spray (Using Polysorbate 20 as Emulsifier)

✔ Recipe:

• 75% Distilled water
• 10% Ethanol
• 10% Fragrance oils
• 5% Polysorbate 20 (Emulsifier)

✔ Results:

• Light, refreshing, quickly evaporates.
• Needs frequent reapplication.

🎯 Conclusion:

• Ethanol-based perfumes work best for high-projection, spray perfumes.
• Oil-based perfumes last longer but are closer to the skin.
• Water-based mists are light and fresh but need emulsifiers and preservatives.

Final Thoughts: How to Select the Right Carrier for Your Perfume

🎯 Next Step: Experiment with different carriers and fragrance compositions to create the perfect balance for your ideal perfume! 👃✨