6.2 Formulating Body Sprays, Eau de Parfum, and Extrait de Parfum
Creating different types of perfumes requires an understanding of concentration levels, ingredients, and formulation techniques. The main difference between Body Sprays, Eau de Parfum (EDP), and Extrait de Parfum lies in the fragrance oil concentration, longevity, and intensity.
1️⃣ Understanding the Differences
| Perfume Type | Fragrance Oil % | Alcohol % | Longevity | Best Use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Body Spray | 1% – 5% | 95% – 99% | 1-3 hours | Everyday casual use |
| Eau de Parfum (EDP) | 15% – 20% | 80% – 85% | 6-8 hours | Formal, long-lasting wear |
| Extrait de Parfum | 20% – 40% | 60% – 80% | 8-12+ hours | Special occasions, luxury perfumes |
2️⃣ Choosing the Right Ingredients
When formulating different types of perfumes, you need:
🔹 Fragrance Oils (Essential Oils & Aroma Chemicals)
✔ Top Notes – Fresh & volatile (Citrus, Aldehydes)
✔ Middle Notes – Heart of the fragrance (Florals, Spices)
✔ Base Notes – Long-lasting foundation (Woods, Musks, Amber)
🔹 Solvent (Carrier Medium for Dilution)
✔ Ethanol (Perfumers Alcohol) – Most common carrier for EDP & Body Sprays
✔ Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) – Used in high-end Extrait formulations
✔ MCT Oil (Fractionated Coconut Oil) – Used in alcohol-free perfume oils
🔹 Fixatives (For Longevity & Stability)
✔ Ambroxan, Musk, Cashmeran – Enhances longevity
✔ Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Vanilla – Adds warmth & depth
3️⃣ Practical Example: Formulating a Citrus-Floral Perfume in Different Concentrations
🎯 Goal: Create a fresh citrus-floral perfume in three forms: Body Spray, Eau de Parfum, and Extrait de Parfum.
🔹 Step 1: Formulate the Fragrance Accord
Top Notes (Fresh & Inviting – 25%)
- Bergamot Essential Oil – 10% 🍋
- Lemon Essential Oil – 5% 🍋
- Hedione – 5% (Enhances citrus diffusion)
- Aldehydes – 5% (Adds a fresh lift)
Middle Notes (Floral & Elegant – 40%)
- Jasmine Absolute – 15% 🌼
- Rose Absolute – 10% 🌹
- Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol – 10% (Boosts floral intensity)
- Iso E Super – 5% (Enhances projection)
Base Notes (Warm & Long-Lasting – 35%)
- Sandalwood Essential Oil – 10% 🌲
- Vanilla Absolute – 5% 🍦
- Ambroxan – 10% (Improves longevity)
- Musk Ketone – 5% (Adds softness)
🔹 Step 2: Adjusting the Dilution for Each Perfume Type
🌀 Body Spray (Light & Refreshing – 3% Fragrance Oil)
✅ Fragrance Concentration: 3%
✅ Alcohol (Ethanol 95%): 97%
✅ Add Water (Optional): 2-3% for a softer feel
🔹 Mix & Let It Rest for 24 Hours Before Use
💡 Tip: Body sprays are designed to be light and refreshing, perfect for casual daily use.
💧 Eau de Parfum (EDP) – Balanced & Long-Lasting (15% Fragrance Oil)
✅ Fragrance Concentration: 15%
✅ Alcohol (Ethanol 80%): 85%
✅ Fixative (Glycerin or DPG): 1-2% for better longevity
🔹 Mix & Let It Age for 2-4 Weeks
💡 Tip: EDP offers a stronger scent with moderate longevity and is the most common type of perfume.
🌟 Extrait de Parfum – Intense & Luxurious (30% Fragrance Oil)
✅ Fragrance Concentration: 30%
✅ Alcohol (Ethanol 70% or DPG 30% mix): 70%
✅ Fixative (Benzoin, Ambroxan, Musk): 2-3% for extreme longevity
🔹 Mix & Let It Age for 4-6 Weeks
💡 Tip: Extrait de Parfum has a high fragrance concentration, requiring less application but lasting all day.
4️⃣ Testing & Adjusting the Formula
📌 Test on blotter paper and skin to compare diffusion & longevity.
📌 Adjust the balance if the scent is too strong or weak.
📌 Monitor evaporation rates – Body sprays evaporate fastest, while Extrait lasts longest.
5️⃣ Final Thoughts & Next Steps
✅ Experiment with different aroma chemicals to improve scent complexity.
✅ Use fixatives wisely to improve longevity and depth.
✅ Try alcohol-free bases (like MCT oil) for niche perfume formulations.
💡 Next Challenge: Try formulating an Oriental or Woody perfume in EDP and Extrait versions! 🚀