Practical Example: Blending a Base Note Accord Using Synthetic Musk and Fixatives

Understanding Base Notes, Musks, and Fixatives

In perfumery, base notes are the foundation of a fragrance. They are the longest-lasting components and provide depth, warmth, and longevity to a perfume.

Synthetic Musks as Base Notes

Musks are an essential part of base notes, known for their ability to add softness, warmth, and diffusion. Synthetic musks are commonly used because they are:
✔ More sustainable than natural animal musks.
✔ Long-lasting and versatile.
✔ Provide a smooth, powdery, or slightly sweet character to the fragrance.

Fixatives in Perfumery

Fixatives help to slow down the evaporation of volatile fragrance components, making the scent last longer on the skin. Some common fixatives include:

• Resins & Balsams (Benzoin, Labdanum) – Warm, sweet, and amber-like.
• Woods (Sandalwood, Cedarwood) – Deep, rich, and grounding.
• Synthetic Fixatives (Ambrettolide, Iso E Super) – Modern, clean, and long-lasting.

🔬 Practical Example 1: Blending a Base Note Accord Using Synthetic Musk & Fixatives

Objective:

Create a long-lasting base note accord using a combination of synthetic musk and fixatives.

Materials Needed:

✔ Synthetic Musks:

• Ambrettolide (Soft, powdery)
• Ethylene Brassylate (Sweet, smooth)

✔ Fixatives:

• Benzoin (Resinous, warm, slightly vanilla-like)
• Sandalwood Oil (Woody, creamy)
• Iso E Super (Modern, radiant, and long-lasting)

✔ Other Materials:

• Ethanol (Perfumer’s alcohol, 95%)
• Glass beakers
• Pipettes
• Fragrance blotters

Step-by-Step Process:

1️⃣ Prepare Your Ingredients:

• Use clean droppers for each ingredient to prevent contamination.
• Arrange them in separate glass beakers.

2️⃣ Create the Base Accord Formula:
Mix the following ingredients in a small glass vial:

• Synthetic Musks:

  • 3 drops Ambrettolide (soft, powdery)
  • 3 drops Ethylene Brassylate (sweet, warm)

• Fixatives:

  • 2 drops Benzoin (resinous, warm)
  • 2 drops Sandalwood Oil (woody, creamy)
  • 3 drops Iso E Super (modern, radiant)

• Dilution:

  • Add 10ml of Ethanol to blend all components.

3️⃣ Let the Accord Mature:

• Store the mixture for at least 24–48 hours to allow proper blending.
• After maturation, test it on a fragrance blotter and observe its scent over time.

Expected Results:

✔ The base accord should be smooth, musky, and long-lasting with a warm, woody depth.
✔ The fixatives should enhance the longevity of the synthetic musks.
✔ Iso E Super should add a modern, slightly woody radiance that makes the musk more diffusive.

🔬 Practical Example 2: Comparing the Evaporation Rates of Different Fixatives

Objective:

Test and compare how different fixative chemicals slow down evaporation and influence the longevity of a fragrance.

Materials Needed:

✔ Three different fixatives:

• Benzoin (Resinous)
• Iso E Super (Synthetic, modern fixative)
• Sandalwood Oil (Natural, woody fixative)
  ✔ Ethanol (95%)
  ✔ Perfume blotters
  ✔ Timer

Step-by-Step Process:

1️⃣ Apply Fixatives to Blotters:

• Take three perfume blotters and apply one fixative to each blotter (3 drops each).
• Label each blotter accordingly.

2️⃣ Observe Evaporation Over Time:

• Smell each blotter at different time intervals:
  • 0 minutes – Initial impression.
  • 1 hour – Check for intensity.
  • 6 hours – Observe changes in strength.
  • 12 hours – Notice which scent remains the longest.

Expected Results:

✔ Benzoin – Strong, warm, and resinous scent; lasts for 6–12 hours.
✔ Iso E Super – Soft, woody, and airy; enhances diffusion but not as strong after 8 hours.
✔ Sandalwood Oil – Creamy, woody, long-lasting; persists for 12+ hours.

✔ Conclusion:

• Natural fixatives (like sandalwood) are deep and long-lasting.
• Synthetic fixatives (like Iso E Super) add radiance and diffusion but may fade faster.
• Resins (like benzoin) provide a warm, ambery depth but are less diffusive.

Final Thoughts: Key Takeaways

✔ Base note accords with synthetic musks and fixatives provide long-lasting depth.
✔ Musks help in softening and smoothing a fragrance’s dry-down.
✔ Fixatives slow down evaporation and help the scent last longer.
✔ Different fixatives perform differently—some provide warmth and depth, while others enhance diffusion and projection.

🚀 Next Step: Experiment by combining different fixatives to find the perfect balance for your unique fragrance creation! 🎨👃✨