Practical Example Module 2:
Introduction
In perfumery, creating fragrance accords involves blending different aroma chemicals to achieve a harmonious and pleasant scent. Aldehydes and esters are two key groups of fragrance ingredients that contribute significantly to a perfume’s freshness, vibrancy, and longevity.
This practical exercise consists of two parts:
1️⃣ Creating a simple fragrance accord using aldehydes and esters
2️⃣ Testing and comparing the longevity of different aroma chemical categories on scent blotters
Part 1: Creating a Fragrance Accord with Aldehydes & Esters
A fragrance accord is a blend of two or more aroma ingredients that form a new, balanced scent with unique characteristics.
Why Use Aldehydes & Esters?
✔ Aldehydes provide a fresh, soapy, sparkling effect, often found in classic perfumes.
✔ Esters add fruity, sweet, and soft nuances, commonly used in modern fragrances.
Ingredients for a Fresh, Fruity Accord (50ml Blend)
Ingredient | Category | Amount (ml) | Purpose |
---|---|---|---|
Citral | Aldehyde | 2 ml | Fresh, citrusy lemon note |
Decanal | Aldehyde | 1 ml | Soapy, waxy, orange-like |
Ethyl Butyrate | Ester | 2 ml | Sweet, pineapple-like fruitiness |
Methyl Anthranilate | Ester | 1 ml | Grape-like, floral-fruity sweetness |
Bergamot Oil | Essential Oil | 3 ml | Fresh citrus balance |
Ethanol (95%) | Solvent | 41 ml | Dilution & blending |
Steps to Create the Accord
🔬 What You Need:
✔ A glass beaker or perfume blending bottle
✔ Pipettes or droppers for accurate measurement
✔ Perfume test strips (scent blotters)
✔ Notebook to record observations
🔬 Procedure:
1️⃣ Measure the aldehydes and esters separately using pipettes.
2️⃣ Add them one by one into a blending bottle.
3️⃣ Add Bergamot Oil to round off the composition.
4️⃣ Pour in the ethanol and shake gently to mix.
5️⃣ Let the mixture rest for at least 24 hours for proper integration.
💡 Resulting Scent Profile:
✔ Top Notes: Fresh lemony-citrus with a waxy aldehyde sparkle
✔ Middle Notes: Sweet pineapple & grape-like fruitiness
✔ Base Notes: Soft floral warmth with lingering freshness
Part 2: Comparing Longevity of Aroma Chemical Categories on Blotters
Why Compare Longevity?
✔ Different aroma compounds evaporate at different rates based on their molecular weight and volatility.
✔ Understanding their longevity helps perfumers balance top, middle, and base notes in a fragrance.
Testing Aroma Chemical Longevity on Blotters
🔬 Materials Needed:
✔ Scent blotters (Perfume strips)
✔ 4 Different Aroma Chemicals (from different categories)
✔ Timer (or clock)
✔ Notebook for observations
Selected Aroma Compounds for Testing
Ingredient | Category | Longevity Estimate | Scent Profile |
---|---|---|---|
Limonene | Terpene | ~1 hour | Fresh citrus burst |
Benzaldehyde | Aldehyde | ~2-3 hours | Almond-like, slightly spicy |
Ethyl Vanillin | Aromatic Compound | ~6-8 hours | Sweet, vanilla, creamy |
Muscone | Ketone | 12+ hours | Warm, musky, animalic |
Procedure for Testing Longevity
1️⃣ Apply one drop of each aroma compound onto separate blotters.
2️⃣ Smell each blotter every hour and note changes.
3️⃣ Record when the scent becomes weak or disappears.
Expected Results & Observations
Time | Limonene (Terpene) | Benzaldehyde (Aldehyde) | Ethyl Vanillin (Aromatic) | Muscone (Ketone) |
---|---|---|---|---|
0 Min | Strong citrus burst | Intense almond | Sweet vanilla | Warm, musky |
1 Hour | Fading quickly | Still strong | Balanced vanilla warmth | Musky depth developing |
3 Hours | Almost gone | Noticeably weaker | Still present | Strong presence |
6 Hours | Gone | Very faint | Still sweet | Musky and rich |
12 Hours | – | – | Faint but detectable | Still present |
Conclusion: Understanding Longevity in Perfumery
💡 Aldehydes (Benzaldehyde): Moderate longevity (2-3 hours) – great for fresh, top-note impact.
💡 Esters (Not tested here, but typically): Short to moderate longevity (~3 hours) – used for fruity, vibrant effects.
💡 Aromatic Compounds (Ethyl Vanillin): Long-lasting (6-8 hours) – adds depth and warmth to perfumes.
💡 Ketones (Muscone): Extremely long-lasting (12+ hours) – ideal for rich, musky base notes.
🚀 Next Steps: Try blending your own fresh aldehydic accord with a long-lasting musk base to test longevity in real perfumes!
😊✨ Happy Perfumery Experimenting!