Practical Example: Creating and Modifying Fragrance Accords

1️⃣ Formulate a Citrus Top Note Accord Using Aroma Chemicals

Understanding Citrus Top Notes

Citrus top notes are the fresh, zesty, and uplifting part of a perfume that evaporates quickly but makes a strong first impression. Common natural citrus ingredients include:

✔ Lemon 🍋 (sharp, fresh)
✔ Bergamot 🍊 (soft, floral)
✔ Grapefruit 🍊 (tangy, slightly bitter)
✔ Orange 🍊 (sweet, juicy)
✔ Lime 🍋 (green, zesty)

Issue: Natural citrus oils are highly volatile and disappear fast.
Solution: Use aroma chemicals to enhance longevity and stability.

Step-by-Step: Creating a Citrus Accord

To create a fresh citrus top note accord, we will blend natural oils + aroma chemicals to balance freshness and longevity.

Formula 1: Simple Citrus Accord (All-Natural Ingredients)

• Lemon Essential Oil – 40% 🍋
• Bergamot Essential Oil – 30% 🍊
• Sweet Orange Essential Oil – 20% 🍊
• Grapefruit Essential Oil – 10% 🍊

🚨 Issue: This blend will smell fresh but fade within 30 minutes.

Formula 2: Enhanced Citrus Accord (Using Aroma Chemicals)

To improve longevity, we will add synthetic aroma chemicals that enhance citrus freshness.

• Citral (Lemon-like, strong aldehydic scent) – 10% 🍋
• Linalool (Bergamot-like, floral-woody touch) – 5% 🌿
• Dihydro Myrcenol (Fresh lime, ozonic, metallic note) – 5% 🍋
• Iso E Super (Smooth, slightly woody, helps longevity) – 5% 🌲
• Lemon Essential Oil – 30% 🍋
• Bergamot Essential Oil – 20% 🍊
• Grapefruit Essential Oil – 15% 🍊
• Ethanol (Carrier solvent) – 10%

✅ Result: This blend keeps the citrus freshness but lasts longer (~2 hours) instead of disappearing in 30 minutes!

🔹 Next Step: You can adjust ratios based on preference (more lemon for brightness, more bergamot for softness, etc.).

2️⃣ Modify a Floral Fragrance Using Synthetic Components

Understanding Floral Fragrances

Floral scents form the heart (middle) notes of many perfumes. Popular floral notes include:

✔ Rose 🌹 (soft, rich, sweet)
✔ Jasmine 🌼 (intense, exotic, warm)
✔ Lily of the Valley 🌿 (light, airy, green)
✔ Tuberose 🌸 (creamy, heady, narcotic)

Issue: Natural floral extracts can be expensive and lack diffusion.
Solution: Use synthetic aroma chemicals to enhance or modify the scent.

Step-by-Step: Modifying a Floral Fragrance

Base Formula: Natural Floral Perfume (Without Aroma Chemicals)

• Rose Absolute – 30% 🌹
• Jasmine Absolute – 30% 🌼
• Orange Blossom Absolute – 20% 🍊
• Sandalwood Oil – 10% 🌲
• Ethanol (Carrier solvent) – 10%

🚨 Issue: The floral notes may lack intensity and projection.

Enhanced Formula: Adding Synthetic Components

We will replace some absolutes with aroma chemicals to increase intensity, diffusion, and longevity.

• Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (Enhances rose, soft floral smell) – 10% 🌹
• Hedione (Enhances jasmine, creates airy effect) – 5% 🌼
• Benzyl Acetate (Enhances orange blossom, fruity touch) – 5% 🍊
• Iso E Super (Soft, woody, smooths the floral notes) – 5% 🌲
• Rose Absolute – 20% 🌹
• Jasmine Absolute – 20% 🌼
• Orange Blossom Absolute – 15% 🍊
• Sandalwood Oil – 10% 🌲
• Ethanol – 10%

✅ Result:
✔ The fragrance is now more intense and projects better.
✔ Jasmine and rose feel more radiant and diffusive.
✔ The perfume lasts longer (~6 hours instead of 3 hours).

Final Thoughts & Experimentation

🔹 Experiment by adjusting ratios – for example, more Hedione = fresher jasmine, more Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol = stronger rose.
🔹 Test the scent evolution over time and on different surfaces (skin, fabric, blotter).
🔹 Modify citrus, floral, or other notes based on preference and longevity needs.

🎨 Next Step: Try blending your own citrus accord and modifying a floral fragrance using aroma chemicals! 🌸✨