Practical Example: Developing an Eau de Parfum Formula with Synthetic & Natural Blends

Creating an Eau de Parfum (EDP) involves balancing natural essential oils and synthetic aroma chemicals to achieve a long-lasting, well-balanced fragrance. The formula must be tested and adjusted for different applications, such as soaps and body sprays, since different bases affect how a fragrance performs.

1️⃣ Step-by-Step Guide: Creating an Eau de Parfum Formula

🔹 Step 1: Understanding Eau de Parfum Composition

• Eau de Parfum (EDP) contains 15-20% fragrance oils in alcohol and water.
• It is more concentrated than an Eau de Toilette (EDT) but less than an Extrait de Parfum.
• It lasts 4-8 hours on the skin and has a moderate to strong projection.

🔹 Step 2: Choosing Natural & Synthetic Ingredients

A balanced blend of natural essential oils and synthetic aroma chemicals gives a rich, stable, and long-lasting scent.

2️⃣ Practical Example: Eau de Parfum Formula (Fresh Citrus-Woody Scent)

Formula for 100mL Eau de Parfum (20% concentration):

🔹 Fragrance Oil Blend (20mL or 20%)

✔ Top Notes (40%) – Fresh & Light

• Bergamot Oil: 5%
• Lemon Oil: 5%
• Mandarin Oil: 5%
• Aldehyde C10 (Citrus Waxiness): 2%
• Isoamyl Acetate (Fruity Pear Effect): 3%

✔ Middle Notes (35%) – Floral & Aromatic

• Jasmine Absolute: 7%
• Rose Absolute: 7%
• Lavender Oil: 5%
• Hedione (Enhances Florals): 8%
• Linalool (Lavender-like): 8%

✔ Base Notes (25%) – Warm & Long-lasting

• Sandalwood Oil: 5%
• Vetiver Oil: 5%
• Vanilla Absolute: 5%
• Ambroxan (Amber-Musky): 5%
• Iso E Super (Woody): 5%

🔹 Dilution Phase (80mL or 80%)

✔ Ethanol (Perfumery Alcohol): 75mL (Acts as a carrier)
✔ Distilled Water: 3mL (Softens the blend)
✔ Fixative (Benzoin Resin or BHT): 2mL (Improves longevity)

💡 Tip: Let the fragrance macerate (rest) for 2-4 weeks in a cool, dark place for a well-balanced scent.

3️⃣ Testing & Adjusting the Fragrance for Different Applications

🔹 Test 1: Eau de Parfum (EDP) on Skin

✔ Apply on the wrist and neck.
✔ Smell after 10 minutes, 1 hour, 4 hours, and 8 hours.
✔ Observe how long it lasts and how the notes evolve.

✅ Result: The fragrance lasted around 6 hours, but the citrus top notes disappeared too quickly.
➡ Adjustment: Increase fixatives (Ambroxan) or use a slow-evaporating solvent like DPG (Dipropylene Glycol) to extend longevity.

🔹 Test 2: Fragrance in a Body Spray

✔ Dilute the EDP to 5% oil concentration.
✔ Mix 95% alcohol with a small amount of water for better misting.
✔ Spray on clothes and skin and observe diffusion and longevity.

✅ Result: Good diffusion but fades within 3 hours.
➡ Adjustment: Increase Hedione or Iso E Super for better projection.

🔹 Test 3: Fragrance in Soap (Functional Fragrance Test)

✔ Mix 1% fragrance in liquid soap and test by washing hands.
✔ Observe how strong the scent is during and after washing.

✅ Result: The fresh citrus scent was noticeable but disappeared quickly after rinsing.
➡ Adjustment: Add more base notes (sandalwood, vanilla, Ambroxan) since soap formulas need stronger fixatives.

4️⃣ Key Takeaways & Adjustments

💡 Final Formula Adjustments:
✔ Increase Ambroxan & Iso E Super to extend longevity.
✔ Adjust the fixatives & solvents for different product types.
✔ Allow 4 weeks of aging before final testing for a stable scent.

Final Thoughts

✔ Balancing natural & synthetic ingredients ensures a stable, long-lasting formula.
✔ Testing in different applications (EDP, body spray, soap) helps refine the fragrance.
✔ Adjusting concentration, fixatives, and diffusion can enhance performance.

🚀 Next Challenge: Try developing an oriental or woody Eau de Parfum and test its performance across different applications!